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When we go to the grocery store, we tend to scrutinize the labels on the food products carefully to make sure all the ingredients are good for our individual bodies. This same practice is extremely important to analysis what products to put on your skin. Preparing yourself with these Do’s and Don’t tips for ingredients will help you become aware of potentially harmful chemicals, artificial colorings and manufactured fragrances will be key in selecting an effective skincare regime.
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Ingredients = Skin Do's
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| Retinol: There’s solid science behind this vitamin-A-family skin saver. It’s the over-the-counter version of Renova (tretinoin), the only FDA-approved topical wrinkle smoother. Look for skin-care products with 1% retinol. That’s all you need with this less-is-more powerhouse ingredient. |
| Alpha-hydroxy Acid: This ingredient sparked a skin-care revolution in the mid-'80s because it actually improved skin’s texture and tone. Now AHAs (a name for a group of acids, including glycolic and lactic) are known as workhorse ingredients — skin resurfacer, glow producer, hydration booster, skin plumper, and a gentle spa peel. |
| Antioxidants: There are thousands of antioxidants, from berries and teas to vitamins, however, not all of them are equally adept at wrangling the skin’s oxidizing molecules (called free radicals) that cause premature aging. Skin-care stalwarts like idebenone (ee-dee-BEN-own) and vitamins C and E are all backed by clinical studies proving their free-radical-fighting prowess. |
| Peptides: According to in-vitro studies, these tiny skin-penetrating amino-acid chains stimulate fibroblasts which is the part of the skin that makes collagen and elastin (which in turn slows with age.) What do peptides do for you? They give you firmer skin that snaps back! |
Sunscreen: There’s no product more protective. Two of the most impressive sunscreen ingredients are Mexoryl for UVA protection and zinc oxide, which provides UVA and UVB protection. Sunscreen is like toothpaste, you have to use enough and wear it every single day to see its benefits. |
| Argan Oil: Dry, sun-damaged skin responds well to essential fatty acids, which argan oil, pressed from the nut of the Moroccan tree, has in spades. The omegas 6 and 9 impart moisture to stressed skin and help it to better hold onto its own. |
| Nano-Lipobelle H-EQ10 is Coenzyme Q10: The great natural nutrient and antioxidant, in a "nano-emulsion" that penetrates far down into the skin. It produced dramatic anti-wrinkle effects in clinical studies. |
| Imidazolidinyl Urea and Diazolidinyl Urea: Used as preservatives to prevent bacterial growth although ineffective against fungi. Known to be a relatively common cause of contact dermatitis. Two trade names for these chemicals are Germall II and Germall 115. Germall 115 may release formaldehyde, a potentially toxic chemical. Potential for low level skin damage in the long term is unproven but appears likely. |
| Sodium Lauryl Sulfate: A detergent common in shampoos and cleaners, where it is relatively safe due to short contact time. If exposure is prolonged is likely to cause skin irritation, dryness and other damage. In fact, sodium lauryl sulfate is sometimes used as a model skin irritant in the experiments where skin protectors are tested. Avoid products with sodium lauryl sulfate unless time of contact with the skin is very short. Even skin cleansers should rather be without it. |
| Mineral oil: petroleum derived hydrocarbons; used as inexpensive base in some products (less today that in the past). Is moderately comedogenic. Mineral oil may also interfere with normal perspiration and other skin functions. |
| Synthetic Colors: Whether synthetic colors are completely safe or mildly damaging in the long run is unknown. Since they serve no useful purpose, they are best avoided (except perhaps when avoiding them means foregoing an otherwise great product). They are labeled as FD&C or D&C, followed by a color and a number, e.g. FD&C Red No. 6 or D&C Green No. 6. |
| Synthetic Fragrances: There are over 200 synthetic fragrances used in cosmetics. There is no way to know which particular ones are in your product, since on the label it will simply say "Fragrance." Safety of most synthetic fragrances is an open question. Best to avoid them since they provide no skin benefits. True, it is good to have a nice smelling cream. However, apart from the questionable safety, frangrance may mask spoilage of your product, an effect you would want to avoid. |
| Ethanolamines (Monoethanolamine aka MEA, Diethanolamine aka DEA, Triethanolamine aka TEA): common pH stabilizers; when exposed to oxygen/air form nitrosoamines, which may be irritating and/or toxic. The amount of nitrosoamines formed during typical use of skin care products with ethanolamines is unclear. |
| Parabens (e.g. Methyl, Ethyl, Propyl and Butyl Paraben): Used as preservatives; inhibit microbial growth and extend shelf life of products. Methyl paraben may degrade releasing methanol, a potentially toxic chemical. However, the amounts of methanol that might be released from methyl paraben in skin care products are too small for any known systemic effects. Most people don't have an obvious skin reaction to parabens. However, more research is needed to determine whether they are truly nontoxic or may cause low level skin damage in the long term. |
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